Once back on the mainland we had half an hour to wander before getting the train, so climbed a little out of Mallaig to get photos back across to Skye. Not being sure where we would be come lunch time we also picked up a sandwich from the local coop. We had looked at getting the steam train from Mallaig, but decided against it on the basis of the bikes not being easily catered for, cost and that the regular train takes the same track across the Glenfinnan viaduct anyway. We did pass the steam train on the way, so got a look at it, and the views at certain points along the tracks are stunning.
The conductor was really friendly and happily helped us on and off the train with the bikes, and we were off again. The scenery at Corpach was gorgeous with views across Loch Linnhe, where it meets the basin of the Caledonian Canal. The canal is classed as a 200 year old monument, and the first part of the path along it was gorgeous. Especially in the blazing sunshine! It was a beautiful hot and sunny 🌞 day today, which was lovely, but also tiring when cycling. A mile along the towpath we came to Banavie, and decided to stop and sort ourselves out before carrying on up the fabulous Neptunes Staircase.
I wanted a loo and the opportunity to put some suncream on and mum wanted a pair of sunglasses as she had forgotten to pick hers up. (We had also discovered that I had picked up someone else's from Grans by accident - possibly my cousins! Nyree, if you're reading this and they are yours sorry! I will get them back to you...) with the confused help of a local we found there was a wee shopping area with public toilets where we managed to get everything we needed. Refreshed and ready to go we headed back to the tow path and Neptunes Staircase.
The staircase is a series of canal locks on the Caledonian Canal that allow boats travelling to safely move up and down above sea level as the land rises inland from the seas edge. We didn't count them but I think there are 8 one after the other (we will find out tomorrow in the Caledonian canal visitor centre in fort Augustus I expect!). It truly is an amazing piece of engineering and we spent some time around them while eating some Isle of Arran ice cream bought at the restaurant - really tasty it was too.
The day before mums bike had been constantly making a noise like something was rubbing the tyre, but we couldn't work out what it was and it seemed worse today. Before heading off again we decided to investigate it properly and try and sort it. Looking at it closely I realised it was actually because the supports for her mudguard were uneven, and it was rubbing on the tyre. We loosened it off, aligned it properly and tightened it back up, and lo and behold it was no longer rubbing and the noise was gone.
We were glad that we had waited a bit longer too as at that point several boats ⛵ started through the locks (4 relatively small sailboats all together). We stayed to watch them through the first Lock. Mum had been on a canal trip down in York on the Leeds - Liverpool canal a few weeks back - a present to my Gran - and was interested to see how it was done, as they had had to manually operate the lock gates themselves - which was pretty hard going by all accounts. The gates on Neptunes Staircase however are electronic and operated by lock keepers, so much faster and easier to navigate. She got chatting to one of the keepers and we found out that it takes around an hour and s half to get boats from top to bottom and slightly longer the opposite way, as the locks take longer to fill than they do to empty.
We finally got on our way again at around 2 o clock, for what I thought was a fairly straight forward 15 miles cycle to the Great Glen waterpark, where we are staying tonight.
The first section was fantastic, the sun shining, following the canal on a wide flat gritted path and a slight tailwind helping us along. mostly open views at least on the canal side of big gentle looking hills. We soon made it to Gairlochy, with another lock on to Loch Lochy where we decided to stop for lunch. A chicken and avocado sandwich between us, and some fruit served us well, and we were thinking of packing up when a family came by doing the route the opposite way. They were lovely people, 2 adults and 3 kids, although one of the girls had her seat much lower than it could have been. Mum heard her say she was tired and we decided to go and say hello and see if we could work this into conversation.
Next to the start of the loch were some toilet and shower facilities for the boaters. The family had managed to tailgate someone using the loo and held the door open - they had been cycling for miles without water and needed to fill water bottles and get hydrated. They were looking for a shop but none being around we gave them some of the Robinsons squash we had for our water - the mini condensed concentrate size is great for taking on a ride so you can top up without carrying a huge bottle with you - and some sweets mum had with her to tide them over till their mum got back.
As the kids were fairly young - especially the youngest boy, they were limited in what they could carry and the distance they were doing each day, and had worked out a system where they would cycle 10 or 11 miles, and then one of the parents would cycle back to the start, pick up a van with all of their gear for camping and baggage, and drive it to where the rest of the family were waiting. It seemed to be working for them, and they were able to tell us about the terrain back to the Great Glen where they had come from.
We took the opportunity to use the facilities, and mum dropped into conversation that I am a cycle trainer and thought the girls seat could be higher. We raised it a bit and she seemed to find it a bit easier, we then also checked the youngest and the dads to make sure they were also at comfortable heights! I had also raised my mums saddle an inch the day before and she had found it easier going after, so I hope it helps them have an easier day tomorrow too.
Taking our leave of the family, we carried on and soon found ourselves climbing. The single track road around Loch Lochy to the Clune forest from the west starts with a series of short steepish gradients, and then evens out into a lovely gradual descent that undulates for a bit before the turn off to the forestry path. There are some beautiful houses built round this point, and the views alternate between wild greenery, and fantastic open views across the Loch - stunning on a day like today.
The road was quiet with very little traffic and not bad going despite the hills. Mum did really well considering, occasionally getting off to push, but soon getting on again to continue cycling. When we reached Clune forest we paused for a bit seeing the rougher ground ahead, I checked my suspension was on and had a look at mums - she has front suspension as I do, but I couldn't find a locking mechanism, so I'm not sure if they can be locked out or are always on, although there was no give when we pushed down, so I think there must be one somewhere. We decided to push on however, and immediately realised the road forked, and we didn't know which one to take. There was a man with a van working right next to us, and we asked him. It turned out he worked for sustrans and was in the process of moving the signage to make it more obvious! He pointed us in the right direction and after a few minutes chat on we went again.
The route here is earth and gravel forestry tracks, not in too bad condition (I've seen worse!), but with loose stones, and potholes in places. I like a bit of off road occasionally so wasn't too fussed at the change, but mum did find the terrain a bit more challenging than the road. The path also undulated, rising more than falling, as we were climbing away from the coast. However the climbing was again mostly short steeper sections with downhills in between. I had said to mum before about maintaining momentum, and she practised this as we went although a bit hesitant about going down too fast on the terrain, it did seem to help. The forest was lovely to cycle through with Ash, Elm and Conifers rising up around us (among others). The forestry commission is in the process of removing non native species and encouraging growth of native trees and other flora. We saw a few butterflies and dragonflies fluttering through the undergrowth - and very little in the way of midges!
Every so often on the left were picturesque streams trickling down the hillside to the loch, and on the right again the views differed between greenery and open views across the water. All in all, a really enjoyable stretch of cycling. After a while we noticed the Loch narrowing and knew we were getting close to the end, although as mum commented, every time we went down we were expecting it to be the last descent and then were presented with another climb!
We did soon come the the end however, and in the last 200 yards or so before meeting the canal path discovered where all the midges had been hiding! Mouths shut and trying not to breath them in we ran the gauntlet and in very little time were back across another lock and on the canal path again. We had expected the path to be similar to the earlier stretch however it was much narrower and oh horror wasn't flat, although not particularly steep or hilly in comparison to what we had done, and still enjoyable, we had been looking forward to the wide, flat and relatively smooth track of earlier in the day!
We made it along however and soon came to the turnoff for the hostel. Unfortunately you can't get to it directly from the canal path, and we had 5 minutes on a fairly narrow and pretty busy road before we could settle the bikes down for the night.
We had discussed the possibility of doing a canoe or kayak from the Great Glen waterpark, but it was too late by the time we got there, and we also decided to forego the swim in the loch we had considered as an alternative as it would have meant braving the road again!
I would really recommend The Great Glen hostel if you are just looking for a bed and aren't too fussed about sharing facilities. We had booked a twin room, which was tiny, but perfectly adequate for what we needed, with one set of bunk beds and a one person shared bathroom/shower room on the ground floor (the main facilities being upstairs) along with the usual common room/dining room and kitchen. It was clean and welcoming, with lovely staff and a tiny shop selling food and essentials.
Instead of our swim, we bought food for dinner from the hostel shop, while we were eating I made a confession to mum. When we stopped for lunch I had been checking the route and realised that today's cycle was actually 21 miles rather than the 15 I had initially thought! I didnt like to mention it at the time as it added 6 miles on to the mental thought of the days ride, but now that we had finished i felt she should know. She was actually quite glad to hear this as it meant that the 31 miles the following day didnt sound quite so bad after today!
After eating in lieu we took a walk up the hill in front of the hostel.
It's a pretty steep climb and we made it far enough up for a bit of a view of a lovely sunset over the treetops without going all the way to the top, then headed back down to the hostel for a cheeky wee raspberry Gin (I had carried it with us and put it in the freezer pretty much as soon as we arrived so it was deliciously cold) and lemonade (no tonic being available in the shop!) Before heading to bed for a good night's sleep ready for a long day tomorrow.
Night all 🌙
It's a pretty steep climb and we made it far enough up for a bit of a view of a lovely sunset over the treetops without going all the way to the top, then headed back down to the hostel for a cheeky wee raspberry Gin (I had carried it with us and put it in the freezer pretty much as soon as we arrived so it was deliciously cold) and lemonade (no tonic being available in the shop!) Before heading to bed for a good night's sleep ready for a long day tomorrow.
Night all 🌙
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